A birthday trip. Furthest from home since before covid. Two bus routes between Canterbury and Folkestone. Plan to go by 17 and return by 16. Why bus? Good view from top deck. No worry about parking. Can have a pint somwhere. Free with old persons pass.
Sunny. About 10 deg, forecast to be 16. Wore jumper. Raincoat in case windy on coast. It wasn’t.
Hoped to walk not much more than two miles because of dodgy left foot. Annoyed that Dane John gardens closed for preparation for food festival. Detour along city wall. Bus left 955. Favourite seat on top deck behind stairs. Legroom, good view. Front seats often too exposed to sun. Three other passengers upstairs.
Old Dover Road, once Roman road to Dubris [Dover] Past Kent County Cricket ground, treelined, two secondary schools, Old Gate Inn. Farmland. Through Bridge. Three pubs and a shop. Used to leaflet here for Safeway. B2065 past Black Robin pub, through Barham [Beara’s settlement], treelined Valley Road. David Starkey’s house. Up to Breach Down, good view of the Elham Valley with its occasional Nailbourne stream. All these places associated with walks with Dover and Thanet rights of way society. Some with my volunteer work as Countryside Access Warden.
Narrow, bumpy road. Black cattle. Sheep. Elham [eel meadow]. Cosy Tea Rooms. The Abbot’s Fireside. Lyminge [from Limen,Saxon name for East Rother River]. Library. Tolford Hill with mast. Etchinghill [once Tottinhol, hollow of Totta’s people]. Golf course. Gatekeeper pub. {see J Glover} Stretch of A20 past channel tunnel terminal into Folkestone [Folca’s Stone, meeting place of the hundred]. Tour Cheriton [church farmstead].
On time, about 1105, at bus station. Toilet open. Old people need access to toilets. Walk south. War memorial. Remembrance Arch to right. Big cranes ahead, seaside development. Left down Avenue of Remembrance. Thousands of soldiers came down here on their way to the slaughter on the western front. Paths down cliff to the right: too many steps for me. Right at bottom of hill, left next to shingle beach. Used to be fun fair here. Harbour for small boats. Onto former Former harbour station and crosschannel ferry jetty. No more trains or ships. Now Harbour Arm, food drink and entertainment. Coffee at Bobbie’s Bakehouse, old signal box, complete with levers.
Between platforms, sculpture of Rug People, refugees, by Paloma Varga Weisz. Walk along former railway over swing bridge (don’t think it swings anymore) Fishing boats on right. Pint of Curious at seafood place, sitting on wooden bench. Too warm in sweater and raincoat. View of white cliffs to Samphire Hoe.
Through fishmarket to Sunny Sands. Seems like name made up by tourist office. Children canoeing in corner of harbour. Fishing boats. Sculpture of nude local woman. Walked to waterline on smooth sand. Sandcastles. Thought of Matthew Arnold on Dover Beach. “Ignorant armies clash by night.” Planned this to be limit of my walk, or hobble. Back towards town centre. Vanilla cone from Sunny Sands kiosk. Generous box of chips from Sandy’s. Lots immature herring gulls, left me alone.
Walk up old High Street, heart of Artists Quarter. Narrow and cobbled. Like climbing a mountain. Sandgate Road street stalls. Wait at bus station for 16 bus. Singledecker. Got seat by window. Bus overfilled with passengers, including pushchair mobility aids and fat people. Many got off in Black Bull Rd area.
A260 check. Wide road. Steeply up past Sugarloaf Hill. Cross North Downs Way and A20. Up again to Hawkinge [Heafoc’s people]Large housing d evelopment. Mayfly pub. Battle of Britain museum. Denton [valley farmstead]. Densole [pool in pasture]. Jackdaw pub. Walks from these. Onto A2 dual carriageway to Canterbury.
A good day out. Simple pleasures.
Acknowledgment: Judith Glover “Place names of Kent”