Having done my first stage of the North Downs Way i was sidetracked by the Saxon Shore Way. I found, probably in the Albion bookshop Canterbury (gone, alas) “the Saxon Shore Way” [Kent Rights of Way Council,1980]
This guide is a set of nine day walks with maps and written directions, each day a different colour. The SSW was 140 miles from Gravesend to Rye, roughly following the Kent coast in Roman times when Thanet was a real island. Saxon shore forts were Roman defences against invaders. Among the many attractions on the way are Rochester Castle, Reculver, Dover Castle, River Stour, and the Royal Military Canal.
I left Gravesend in January 1984, intending to walk the first stage to Strood. This included Cliffe, Cooling, Northward Hill nature reserve and part of Carol Donaldson’s beloved marshes. [Carol Donaldson, “On the marshes”, Little Toller Books, 2017]
That first day was a mess. I went astray twice, blaming poor signage, and ended at the Fenn Bell on A228, about six miles short of Strood. Luckily hitched a lift to Chatham and took a train back to Canterbury.
In August 1991 i had a pint in the Royal Cinque Ports in Rye, feeling smugly pleased with myself for completing the nine stages. A little later my friend and fellow walker and runner Llew Williams said “You know you finished the SSW? Well it’s been extended to Hastings” I swore.
Llew taught electrical installation at Canterbury college. A really nice guy. He died too young of throat cancer. So it goes.
Later i walked to Hastings. Then, in stages, to Eastbourne and the South Downs Way.
Always more to walk.
February 23rd, 2021
Rambling Brummie 